Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions: application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation

Paul A.J. Bonar, Colm J. Fitzgerald, Zhiliang Lin, Ton S. van den Bremer, Thomas A.A. Adcock, Alistair G.L. Borthwick

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Abstract

Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. Gramstad et al. (Phys. Fluids 25 (12): 122103, 2013) have shown that the key physics underlying these increases can be captured by a weakly dispersive and weakly nonlinear Boussinesq-type model. In the present paper, a numerical model based on an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation is used to repeat these earlier simulations. Although qualitative agreement is achieved, the present model is found to be unable to reproduce accurately the findings of the earlier study. Model parameter tests are then used to demonstrate that the present Boussinesq-type formulation is not well-suited to modelling the propagation of waves over sudden depth transitions. The present study nonetheless provides useful insight into the complexity encountered when modelling this type of problem and outlines a number of promising avenues for further research.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)145-155
Number of pages11
JournalJournal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy
Volume7
Issue number2
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2021

Keywords

  • Boussinesq-type equations
  • Freak wave
  • Kurtosis
  • Rogue wave
  • Skewness

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