TY - JOUR
T1 - Correct generation of the bound set-down for surface gravity wave groups in laboratory experiments of intermediate to shallow depth
AU - Mortimer, William
AU - Raby, Alison
AU - Antonini, Alessandro
AU - Greaves, Deborah
AU - van den Bremer, Ton S.
PY - 2022
Y1 - 2022
N2 - Using linear (first-order) wave generation theory in laboratory experiments, leads to significant contamination of the wave field by free non-linear (second-order) error waves, increasingly so at shallower depths. Second-order wave generation theory has previously been established, and so has correct generation of the bound set-down, made up from second-order bound waves in the sub-harmonic part of the spectrum, for bichromatic and irregular wave fields in shallow to intermediate depth. In the present work, different from previous studies, we validate second-order wave theory explicitly for isolated wave groups, which provide a demanding test on the correct generation of sub-harmonic bound waves and the stroke length of the wavemaker. We do so for shallow to intermediate water depth, where some previous attempts at full elimination of sub-harmonic error waves have been hampered by limited paddle stroke. We overcome these limitations by applying second-order wavemaker theory to a piston-type paddle with an extended paddle stroke that can thence generate the bound set-down correctly. We show that sub-harmonic error waves are eliminated by considering wave groups in relative depths k0d = 0.6–1.1, with important applications in coastal engineering experiments, such as run-up and overtopping.
AB - Using linear (first-order) wave generation theory in laboratory experiments, leads to significant contamination of the wave field by free non-linear (second-order) error waves, increasingly so at shallower depths. Second-order wave generation theory has previously been established, and so has correct generation of the bound set-down, made up from second-order bound waves in the sub-harmonic part of the spectrum, for bichromatic and irregular wave fields in shallow to intermediate depth. In the present work, different from previous studies, we validate second-order wave theory explicitly for isolated wave groups, which provide a demanding test on the correct generation of sub-harmonic bound waves and the stroke length of the wavemaker. We do so for shallow to intermediate water depth, where some previous attempts at full elimination of sub-harmonic error waves have been hampered by limited paddle stroke. We overcome these limitations by applying second-order wavemaker theory to a piston-type paddle with an extended paddle stroke that can thence generate the bound set-down correctly. We show that sub-harmonic error waves are eliminated by considering wave groups in relative depths k0d = 0.6–1.1, with important applications in coastal engineering experiments, such as run-up and overtopping.
KW - Error waves
KW - Focused wave groups
KW - Harmonic decomposition
KW - Second-order wave generation
KW - Set-down
UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85127154462&partnerID=8YFLogxK
U2 - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104121
DO - 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104121
M3 - Article
AN - SCOPUS:85127154462
SN - 0378-3839
VL - 174
JO - Coastal Engineering
JF - Coastal Engineering
M1 - 104121
ER -