Efficient two-layer non-hydrostatic wave model with accurate dispersive behaviour

Menno P. de Ridder*, Pieter B. Smit, Ap R. van Dongeren, Robert T. McCall, Kees Nederhoff, Ad J.H.M. Reniers

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

10 Citations (Scopus)
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A 2-layer non-hydrostatic model with improved dispersive behaviour is presented. Due to the assumption of a constant non-hydrostatic pressure distribution in the lower layer, the dispersive behaviour is improved without much additional computational time. A comparison with linear wave theory showed that this 2-layer model gives a better result for the dispersion relation and shoaling of waves in intermediate water. This means that the 2-layer model is applicable in shallow and intermediate water depths (up to relative depths kh equals 4), whereas the 1-layer model is only applicable in shallow water depths (kh smaller than 1). Three laboratory experiments, including a fringing reef and a barred beach, were used to validate the presented mode for different hydrodynamic conditions. Based on these results, it can be concluded that the 2-layer model can be applied to accurately simulate the bulk wave height and spectral properties. The low frequency wave height, the setup and in particular the second order statistics contain more scatter, but the model accurately captured the general trend. Furthermore, the model showed good results for complex bathymetries in shallow to intermediate water.

Original languageEnglish
Article number103808
Number of pages16
JournalCoastal Engineering
Publication statusPublished - 2021

Bibliographical note

Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.


  • Dispersive behaviour
  • Non-hydrostatic model
  • Wave modelling
  • XBeach


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