@inproceedings{72464a34e3194b8288802e35a7629cf6,
title = "Individual wave height distribution in constant and finite depth regions",
abstract = "Several alternatives to the Rayleigh distribution have been proposed for describing individual wave heights in regions where depth-induced wave breaking occurs. The most widely used of these is the so-called Battjes and Groenendijk distribution. This distribution has been derived and validated in a context of a shallow water foreshore-waves propagating over a gently sloping shallow region towards the shore. Its validity for waves propagating in regions with shallow flat bottoms is investigated here. It is concluded that the distribution on average underestimates (outside its range of validity) high wave height measurements in shallow flat bottoms by as much as 15%.",
keywords = "Depth limited, Field data, Flat bottoms, Flume data, Wave height distribution",
author = "{Van Gent}, Marcel and Sofia Caires",
year = "2011",
language = "English",
isbn = "9781880653968",
series = "Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference",
pages = "313--320",
booktitle = "Proceedings of the 21st (2011) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2011",
note = "21st International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2011 ; Conference date: 19-06-2011 Through 24-06-2011",
}