@inproceedings{603b9eb664b245d1b1c7df758286de05,
title = "Infragravity-wave dominance at sea-dikes fronted by very and extremely shallow foreshores",
abstract = "While the significance of infragravity waves (IG) in many—often-hazardous—nearshore processes is widely-recognized, many of the empirical and numerical models used in dike safety assessments do not (directly) consider their contribution. Here, we combine physical and numerical modelling to better understand the factors that contribute to the dominance of IG waves over higher-frequency waves at the dike toe. Findings show that IG-wave dominance increases as the ratio of local water depth to offshore significant wave height decreases. Therefore, it is critical that any tool used to assess the safety of dikes fronted by very and extremely shallow foreshores accurately describe IG-wave dynamics.",
keywords = "Bound-wave shoaling, Break-point forcing, Composite modelling, Infragravity waves, Sea dike, Shallow foreshores, XBeach",
author = "Lashley, {Christopher H.} and Bricker, {Jeremy D.} and {van der Meer}, Jentsje and Corrado Altomare and Tomohiro Suzuki",
year = "2019",
language = "English",
isbn = "9781880653852",
series = "Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference",
publisher = "International Society of Offshore and Polar Engineers (ISOPE)",
pages = "3553--3559",
editor = "Chung, {Jin S.} and Akselsen, {Odd M.} and HyunWoo Jin and Hiroyasu Kawai and Yongwon Lee and Dmitri Matskevitch and {Ho Van}, Suak and Decheng Wan and Wang, {Alan M.} and Satoru Yamaguchi",
booktitle = "Proceedings of the 29th International Ocean and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE 2019",
note = "29th International Ocean and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE 2019 ; Conference date: 16-06-2019 Through 21-06-2019",
}