Near-shore wave simulations with a boussinesq-type model including breaking

Mart Borsboom, Neelke Doorn, Jacco Groeneweg, Marcel Van Gent

Research output: Chapter in Book/Conference proceedings/Edited volumeConference contributionScientificpeer-review

Abstract

The Boussinesq-type modeling concept provides an adequate and efficient means to describe wave dynamics in coastal regions. They are an extension of the depth-averaged shallow-water model and include the propagation of short waves as well as nonlinear effects. The Boussinesq-type model applied in this paper has been developed to obtain an accuracy sufficient for practical purposes within limited computing times. We present the extension of this model with a 2-D wave breaking model based on a combination of the eddy viscosity concept and the surface roller concept. The combination has a number of features that makes it suitable for nearshore applications. Mass and momentum are strictly conserved while the wave breaking model only dissipates energy, which is in agreement with physical laws. The results and the comparison with experiments under very different wave conditions demonstrate the good performance of the model.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationCoastal Dynamics 2001
PublisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)
Pages759-768
Number of pages10
ISBN (Print)0784405662, 9780784405666
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2001
Externally publishedYes
Event4th Conference on Coastal Dynamics - Lund, Sweden
Duration: 11 Jun 200115 Jun 2001

Publication series

NameCoastal Dynamics 2001

Conference

Conference4th Conference on Coastal Dynamics
Country/TerritorySweden
CityLund
Period11/06/0115/06/01

Keywords

  • Boussinesq-type modeling
  • Wave breaking
  • Numerical modeling
  • Validation
  • Shallow foreshores

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