Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

L. Cavaleri*, S. Abdalla, A. Benetazzo, L. Bertotti, J. R. Bidlot, Breivik, S. Carniel, R. E. Jensen, G. Ph van Vledder, More Authors

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleScientificpeer-review

135 Citations (Scopus)

Abstract

In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at the past, a critical analysis of the present capabilities and a foresight of where the field is likely to go. After a short introduction, Chapter 2 deals with the basic processes at work and their modelling aspects. Chapter 3 highlights the interaction with wind and currents. Chapter 4 stresses the need for a more complete, spectral, approach in data assimilation. Chapter 5 summarizes the situation with a discussion on the present status in wave modelling and a look at what we can expect in the future.

Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)164-233
JournalProgress in Oceanography
Volume167
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 1 Jan 2018

Keywords

  • Water waves
  • Wave dynamics
  • Wave forecasting
  • Wave measurements
  • Wave-current interactions
  • Wind-wave interactions

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