Wind effects in the parametrisation of physical characteristics for a nearshore wave model

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To properly assess the energy and waves at a region, it is vital to obtain suitable long term metocean conditions. Although, wave buoys are a significant source of information they are not able to provide a detailed and complete resource assessment, as they have inherent spatiotemporal and recording limitations. Therefore, numerical wave models are often used to estimate wave power and metocean conditions. A wave model can provide realistic representation of physical processes, but it should entail careful tuning of parameters, which are often based on empirical and semi-empirical configurations. The study presents calibration of a wave numerical model and examines its performance, for nearshore wave assessments. Parametrisations of wind growth and whitecapping
coefficients have direct effects on evolution of locally generated waves, swells, and can reduce uncertainty in the results of a hindcast. The results are used to explain the physical meaning of differences, and provide a detail comparison of metocean parameters with nearshore and shallow water buoys as in-situ benchmarkers. Inter-model comparisons also indicate differences in spatial wave generation and propagation, as affected by wind growth and dissipation rates. The “optimal” solution will result in a model that will be used to provide a long-term high resolution metocean and wave power assessment for the Netherlands, that so far has been lacking in wave energy resource characterisation.
Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of the 13th European Wave Energy and Tidal Conference (EWTEC 2019)
Number of pages8
Publication statusPublished - 2019
EventEWTEC 2019: 13th European Wave and Tidal Energy Conference - Naples, Italy
Duration: 1 Sep 20196 Sep 2019


ConferenceEWTEC 2019: 13th European Wave and Tidal Energy Conference
Internet address

Bibliographical note

Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository 'You share, we take care!' - Taverne project
Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.


  • ST6
  • SWAN proposed changes
  • Whitecapping
  • wind drag


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