On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity

M.A. de Schipper, R. Ranasinghe, A.J.H.M. Reniers, M.J.F. Stive

Research output: Chapter in Book/Conference proceedings/Edited volumeConference contributionScientificpeer-review


Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological rhythmicity. Narrow-banded and long wave period, both proxies for swell waves, are often found to be present prior to the initiation of rhythmicity. Furthermore, numerical model computations illustrate that swell waves induce significantly larger wave group induced velocities on the bar. These findings imply that the arrival of swell waves can initiate and stimulate the nearshore morphological rhythmicity.
Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2010
EditorsJ McKee Smith, P Lynett
Place of Publications.l.
Number of pages14
Publication statusPublished - 2011
Event32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering - s.l., Shanghai, China
Duration: 30 Jun 20105 Jul 2010
Conference number: 32

Publication series

NameCoastal Engineering Proceedings


Conference32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Abbreviated titleICCE 2010


  • Nearshore sandbars
  • Rhythmicity
  • Wave groups

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